Fwd: Re: Fwd: How to Build a PVC Hoophouse (http://rainyside.com/resources/hoophouse.html)

[julia pfeifer]

> >>How to Build a PVC Hoophouse
> >>Written by Travis Saling
> >>Questions, comments or suggestions? Please post them on our forum.
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>An unheated PVC hoophouse can be a useful addition to the garden. It 
>keeps
> >>excessive rain off the plants, blocks the wind, raises daytime 
>temperatures
> >>5-10 degrees (and often much more), and keeps frosts and heavy dew off 
>the
> >>leaves. PVC hoophouses are inexpensive to build, and can be put up in 
>about
> >>an hour. Take a look, and decide for yourself!
> >>
> >>Parts list for a 10'x21' PVC hoophouse
> >>             1/2-inch heavy duty PVC pipe (30-inch lengths), for stakes 
>16
> >>             3/4-inch light duty PVC pipe (10-foot lengths), for ribs 16
> >>             3/4-inch light duty PVC pipe (34-inch lengths), for 
>ridgeline
> >>7
> >>             3/4-inch PVC tee connector (3-way) 2
> >>             3/4-inch PVC cross connector (4-way) 6
> >>             20'x25' sheet of clear plastic 1
> >>             1-inch black poly pipe (8-inch lengths), for clips 16
> >>             Optional: 1/2-inch PVC pipe (12-inch lengths), to reinforce
> >>joints 8
> >>             Optional: 10'x25' sheet of clear plastic, for ends 1
> >>             Optional: Large binder clips 12
> >>             Tools needed:
> >>             hacksaw (for cutting PVC and poly pipe to length)
> >>             rubber mallet (for snugging up joints)
> >>             utility knife (to slit poly pipe lengthwise)
> >>             25' tape measure
> >>             drill with 5/8" spading bit (if internally reinforcing 
>joints)
> >>Total amounts of pipe to be purchased
> >>             5 10'-lengths of 1/2" PVC
> >>             19 10'-lengths of 3/4" PVC
> >>             11' of 1" poly pipe
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>Before getting started, you need to mark out where your PVC hoophouse is
> >>going. The diagram to the right gives you the distances for the PVC
> >>hoophouse I am describing; but you can easily modify it to the size you
> >>need. As described, this 10'x21' PVC hoophouse will be roughly 7' tall 
>in
> >>the center.
> >>
> >>To ensure that the sides are all parallel and square, measure across the
> >>diagonals: Both distances should be the same.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>The first thing to do is collect all your separate parts. The 
>construction
> >>will go much quicker if you have a helper.
> >>
> >>Drive a stake into the ground every 36 inches along the two sides (this 
>is
> >>much easier if you cut the bottom of the stake at an angle). Try to get
> >>them as straight up as possible.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>I find it easiest to put up all the separate hoops first, then connect 
>the
> >>ridge afterward. Each of the two end hoops is made using two 10' lengths 
>of
> >>3/4" PVC, joined with a PVC tee. The other six hoops use the PVC crosses 
>in
> >>place of the PVC tees. Since I like to be able to move the PVC hoophouse
> >>from season to season, the joints are dry-fit together (no glue). They 
>seem
> >>to stay together, especially if I use a rubber mallet to snug up all the
> >>connections.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>Optional step: I have found that the joints mentioned above are sturdier 
>if
> >>I reinforce them internally, by inserting a 1-foot length of 1/2" PVC
> >>through the joint. These pieces seem to fit through a 3/4" PVC tee okay;
> >>but you may have to drill out the PVC crosses in one direction, using a
> >>5/8" spading bit. This can be tricky, so be sure to clamp the cross down
> >>well BEFORE attempting to drill it out!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>The two ends of each hoop slide easily over the 1/2" PVC stakes. If the
> >>stakes aren't in the ground perfectly straight, don't worry about it; 
>the
> >>pressure from the hoops tends to even out their alignment somewhat.
> >>
> >>When setting up the hoops, having that helper around REALLY makes things
> >>easier.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>The next step is to connect the ridgeline. Starting at one end of the 
>PVC
> >>hoophouse, connect the hoops at the top, using the 34-inch sections of 
>3/4"
> >>PVC. As I go, I like to use the rubber mallet to set each section as far
> >>into the connectors as possible. Note that the ridgeline will be 
>slightly
> >>shorter than 21 feet, for increased stability.
> >>
> >>Congratulations! You have finished the frame!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>The plastic sheeting can be secured to the frame in many ways. 8-inch
> >>lengths of 1-inch black poly pipe can be slit lengthwise, making clips
> >>which can hold the plastic onto the PVC frame. A slightly more expensive
> >>solution is to use large binder clips, which can be found at any office
> >>supply store.
> >>
> >>I like to sandwich the sides of the plastic with 2x4 lumber, screwed
> >>together. When it gets windy, this extra weight holds the plastic down 
>much
> >>better than the clips alone.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>All sorts of heat-loving plants thrive in a PVC hoophouse environment,
> >>including tomatoes, peppers, and, unfortunately in this case, horsetail.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>Making the Optional Ends
> >>This goes much easier if it's done before the frame is "skinned" with 
>the
> >>20'x25' plastic sheet.
> >>
> >>Cut the 10'x25' piece of clear plastic to make two 10'x12.5' pieces. 
>Take
> >>one, and lay it over one end hoop of the PVC hoophouse (the 10' 
>measurement
> >>should be vertical), such that the hoop is completely covered, but at 
>least
> >>one foot of plastic is on the ground. Use the poly pipe clips to secure
> >>this plastic end piece to the hoop. Cut a slit down the middle to make 
>the
> >>door. There will be some excess plastic, which can be cut off if 
>desired.
> >>That's it! Repeat this at the other end of the PVC hoophouse. These 
>"doors"
> >>can be tied open with twine, or held shut with weights such as bricks or
> >>water jugs (which is why that extra foot of door, laying on the ground, 
>is
> >>necessary).
> >>
> >>It has been my experience that the poly pipe clips do not hold well if 
>they
> >>are used over two layers of plastic. So I use the poly clips to secure 
>the
> >>end pieces to the end hoops, and then hold the walls in place using the
> >>large binder clips.
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>Further Notes
> >>Although I use the more inexpensive PVC for the 3/4" ribs, I have found 
>it
> >>worthwhile to purchase the heavy gauge 1/2" PVC for the stakes. When the
> >>wind catches the PVC hoophouse broadside, the stakes experience a lot of
> >>stress at the point they enter the ground. The thicker the wall of the 
>pipe
> >>is, the less likely it is to break. One gentleman wrote and suggested
> >>inserting Rebar inside the stakes, which certainly would be worthwhile 
>in
> >>an unusually windy location. Since any stress on the ribs is spread over
> >>their entire length, there isn't much point in getting the thick-walled
> >>3/4" PVC. Also, the thicker PVC will be less flexible, and in addition 
>it
> >>may not fit over the 1/2" pipe used for stakes and reinforcement.
> >>
> >>In most cases, I have found the weight of the 2x4s (used to hold down 
>the
> >>plastic) sufficient to keep everything in place. People in very windy 
>spots
> >>may need to further secure these either with ground anchors or by 
>pounding
> >>Rebar into the ground (using it as you would a tent stake).
> >>
> >>In case it isn't clear: All clamping with binder clips or home-made poly
> >>pipe clips is at the ends of the PVC hoophouse (at the ends of the 
>plastic
> >>sheeting, in other words). Putting them in the middle will just 
>guarantee
> >>that you will lose them as soon as the wind rises. It's also a good idea 
>to
> >>clamp the plastic while it is dry - even a thin film of water between 
>the
> >>plastic and the PVC pipe greatly decreases the holding power of any 
>clamps.
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>Relevant Links
> >>High Tunnels for Early Spring/Late Fall Production
> >>A paper by Penn State University's Deparment of Horticulture
> >>
> >>Hoop House Structures
> >>If you want something more permanent and of higher quality, these folks
> >>manufacture a low cost greenhouse kit
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>The author has no association with Hoop House Structures, Green Winters
> >>Hoophouse, or any other manufacturer of commercial hoop house or 
>greenhouse
> >>structures, design kits, or plans.
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >>Special thanks to Bob Carter, who posted his method for building PVC
> >>hoophouses on the newsgroup rec.gardens many years back.
> >>
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------------------
>------
> >>
> >
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