Joel Salatin
advocates a better way to raise food
Farmer/lecturer Joel Salatin champions 'moral farming'
as a better way to raise food. 'What is a moral way to raise a
chicken?' he asks.
By David Grant |
Meet the best,
loudest (and only) Christian-libertarian- Capitalist-environmentalist-lunatic farmer on the face
of planet Earth.
http://features.csmonitor.com/environment/2009/11/24/joel-salatin-advocates-a-better-way-to-raise-food/
Joel Salatin,
self-professed owner of that lengthy honorific, has a personality
bigger than the Grain Belt and a genius for farming that has made him
a glib, brilliant prophet to a growing movement of back-to-nature
farmers from California to Swoope, Va. (pop. 1,326), where his
550-acre Polyface Farm rests at the foot of the Blue Ridge
Mountains.
Mr. Salatin's
agricultural preaching has influenced food author and journalist
Michael Pollan ("Omnivore's Dilemma") and earned him a prominent
spot in the documentary "Food, Inc.," making waves worldwide.
What makes Salatin so powerful on the farming scene is a unique mix of
ingenuity, faith, and business savvy.
Whether making
farming lectures feel like religious revivals or handling customers'
questions at the family store, it's this blend of agricultural
potency and inspirational vision that enables him to gross roughly $2
million annually and stand at the front of a growing community of
farmers that may look like quintessential American rustics but whose
techniques are anything but traditional.
On a foundation of
Christian principles, Salatin has built a farming ecosystem where
cows, pigs, chickens, turkeys, and rabbits interact ecologically in a
way that goes beyond conservation.
"What we're
looking at is God's design, nature's template, and using that as a
pattern to cut around and lay it down on a domestic model to duplicate
that pattern that we see in nature," Salatin says.
What that means for
Polyface in practical terms is that the cattle graze different areas
of pasture every day. Then chickens pick through the same fields,
eating bugs and spreading cow manure before clucking back to mobile
coops.
The farm's pigs
generate fertilizer by rooting around the floor of the barn, lured by
sweet corn into aerating the mix of hay, cow manure, and wood chips.
The finished compost is spread on fields. This process not only takes
almost nothing out of the environment, it puts nutrients back
in.
"We believe that
the farm should be building 'forgiveness' into the ecosystem,"
Salatin says. "What does that mean? That a more forgiving ecosystem
is one that can better handle drought, flood, disease,
pestilence."
Salatin concedes
that when his father bought the farm in 1962, the family's initial
emphasis on sustainable farming had more to do with environmental
concerns than faith convictions. But as the business evolved, Salatin
began to see himself situated at a unique place in America's moral
conversation.
"We should at
least be asking, Is there a righteous way to farm and an unrighteous
way to farm? Š The first goal is to at least get people to
appreciate that how we farm is a moral question," he says. "Once
you get to that point, then you can actually discuss:
What is a moral
farm? What is a moral way to raise a chicken?"
How farm animals are treated on the majority of farms today dismays
Salatin.
What Americans do to
pigs, chickens, and cows speaks ill of the nation's moral health, he
says. "A culture that views its life from such a manipulative,
disrespectful stance will soon view its citizens the same way and
other cultures the same way. It's how we respect the least of these
that creates a moral-ethical framework."
Don't be confused:
Salatin is no crunchy-granola transplant to Appalachia. He graduated
from archconservative Bob Jones University in Greenville, S.C., with a
degree in English. While he appreciates the "bearded, beaded,
braless, Woodstock revolution" set who make up the bulwark of
environmentally conscious farming, he's delighted that half of those
coming to visit his farm nowadays are involved in the home-school
movement.
It's this broad
appeal that makes Salatin unique, says Teresa Heinz, the American
philanthropist whose foundation recently awarded him a $100,000 award
for his work.
"Salatin is a person who is accessible conceptually and conceptually
acceptable to a huge number of people - not just the Massachusetts
guys, but people from anywhere," Ms. Heinz says.
What breaks
Salatin's heart is that the rest of the religious right has been
largely uninterested in picking up the banner of environmental
stewardship.
"I think the whole
religious right community should be very apologetic and repentant that
we - who should have carried the banner of Earth stewardship - got
co-opted on that message," he says.
But his position as
a darling of the environmental left but with increasing cachet and
respect from the religious right may make him the catalyst in bringing
the two groups together.
"Buying food as a
community is a very fundamental Christian value. It's a value of
many religions, and it's a value of the liberal community as well,"
says David Evans, who owns Marin Sun Farms, 40 miles north of San
Francisco. "I like to believe that around food production is where
we can become more politically neutral. Everyone should be around the
table on these issues."
Like Salatin, Mr.
Evans refuses to sell his products beyond a roughly four-hour drive
from his farm. By following Salatin's model of marketing directly to
local restaurants, farmers' markets, and grocers, Evans has tapped
into a community-based form of economic growth.
"We were growing at 50 to 100 percent a year for the last 10 years,"
Evans says, adding that sales between June 2008 and August 2009
increased by 100 percent. "It's easy to adopt [Salatin's]
practices because he has proven results."
In partnerships with local ranchers, Marin Sun Farms grosses roughly
$3 million per year by selling to three public school districts, 49
restaurants, and Stanford University's dining services, among
others. Salatin, by comparison, sells to roughly 2,000 families
through local "buying clubs" and about 50 restaurants, including a
Chipotle franchise in Charlottesville, Va.
While farmers are
often quick to grasp Salatin's agricultural practices, persuading
them to adopt the marketing portion of his program is much more
difficult.
"They assume they can just sit out on the tractor seat and till the
crop and not have to deal with the people," says Galen Bontrager, a
former apprentice at Polyface Farms who now runs a small,
Salatin-inspired farm in Iowa.
Moreover, Mr. Bontrager says, farmers have become so used to relying
on those outside agriculture for guidance on their farms that
they've lost their initiative.
This is part of the reason Salatin spends nearly half his time
preaching his agricultural evangelism from coast to coast. By all
accounts, his presentations are barnburners.
"Hearing him talk is like going to a revival meeting," says Jo
Robinson, a journalist and founder of eatwild.com, a clearinghouse for
information on pasture-raised animals.
People come away from his meetings, saying, " 'I'm going to do
everything he's doing!' " she adds. "He takes people who have
never been farmers and inspires them to become farmers."
But the big question
is, Can this sort of small-scale, environmentally sustainable farming
really feed the world?
Salatin answers with
a resounding yes, even though ecoconscious farming currently accounts
for less than 5 percent of American food production. And that's
after what he estimates is a quadrupling of the number of
environmentally friendly farms in the past five years.
"Not only can we
feed the world, we're the only system that can feed the world,"
Salatin declares. "What's happening is that the current industrial
system is beginning to break down."
Still, Polyface
Farms faces an ethical limit when it comes to producing food: By
promising personal connections with the purchasers of Polyface
products, the business can grow only so large.
"His model is not
scalable in terms of getting bigger and bigger. That defeats what
he's doing," Ms. Robinson says. "It can be multiplied - there
can be many people that do what he does. There are people who are
scaling up so that they can sell to restaurant chains and Whole Foods,
and he's not a part of that."
If Salatin's model
is going to be more than a footnote to American agricultural history,
many more farmers will need to attempt his delicate balance: growing
big and savvy enough to make a decent profit while staying small
enough to remain part of the community. Until then, Salatin and his
devotees hope to find converts in more and more farmers' markets,
local restaurants, and buying clubs.
"We know that the
best-tasting stuff and the most integrity is found by buying right
from the farmer you know," Evans says. "It doesn't get any
better than that."
Editor's
note: For more
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page, which offers
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